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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2003, 08:49 PM
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I've got these Edge Rollerflex pads that are supposedly made of 600 Denier Nylon (anyone know for sure? Egde/Eddy gear) or brand name Cordura by DuPont.

The pads slide very well on Sportcourt. Whatever you define "very well" in roller hockey as. In my case it means better than Clarino pads that were duct-taped.

I bought some Lucite in hopes of trying out a plastic mod.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2003, 10:54 PM
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Angry

Coon Dog-
I'm trying to post pictures but it comes up as a link
someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2003, 11:36 PM
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http://www.goaliestore.com/board/mis...&action=bbcode

Read that
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2003, 08:41 PM
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I have been down this road myself, and have found that nylon is the answer.....ballistic nylon, or in my case, air bag material.

Since I use the pads for both Ice and Roller(sport court), I wanted to make the "covers" quickly removable.

I basicly layed out a pattern that covered the inside of the pad from the break in the toe area to the middle knee roll. These covers are attatched to the calf protector straps by way of slipping the strap through a button hole that I had sewn into the material. They are attatched to the front side of the pad using velcro, with the mating side of the velcro sewn on to the cover.

Here's a link to a bit of a debate on weather or not you should do any mods to your pads to make them slide better on sport court:
Applying dust to your pads.

Well I thought I had posted some detailed thread of how I did my inner pad covers, but I couldn't find it. If anyone's interested, contact me and I can give you the low-down on them.

Thanks,
Rick
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2003, 09:26 PM
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I just got some ballistic nylon for $34 CAD / metre to patch up my rollerhockey player pants.

You mention button holes and sewing velcro.

I was thinking of putting a long lip like the Battram pads, and use it to string a bent piece of lucite on... and have the leg straps on the other side. Basically similar to the plastic parts on the battram pads.

My question is whether or not you think it is a good idea to sew on to the pads themselves (mine made out of I think 600 denier nylon).

Thanks
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2003, 09:40 PM
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I have a pair of Mitchell pad covers if anyone wants them. Price is negotiable. I bought them from another boardmember a while ago.
They are all black with white lettering, size large (34-36), in great condition and are very adjustable.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2003, 11:12 PM
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Sewing equates permenancy.....to a degree any way.

If you are planing on using them solely for roller, and are able to sew them on, more power to ya! I would love to be able to sew mine on, or at least sew the securing fasteners on, but I don't think that I could actualy get the stich under the pad material with out some major deconstruction.......which would probably result in total pad destruction! ..........hey, maybe I'm on to somthing here...Honey, my pads are destroyed, I'm going to have to get a NEW pair!!! .......yeah, right!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2003, 11:28 PM
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Hehe, a new pair. Interesting idea...

I tried Mont's coke bottle mod but I just couldn't get it shaped right.

Yeah, these pads are solely for roller since they are all cordura pads (ugly looking yes , but functionally good).

I have this hook needle used for furniture repair that I was thinking of trying.

One major hurdle would be ensuring that I am not losing any integrity in the original material. That would be silly, cuz as you said it's permanent.

Maybe I should just try using industrial strength velcro to attach the plastic on (as used by someone in another thread - sorry I forgot who). That way it is a temporary way of testing out the feel of it on the court. Even though I heard it's not that sticky, it'll work for a test period.

netminder9 - any luck with those pics?

I just noticed an inner toe part is kind of wearing out so I might patch that up too.

Wonder if ballistic nylon will stay as waterproof as it is at the beginning
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2003, 11:39 PM
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I know that I have to replace the velcro on the front of my pad every so often, but I think that it's mostly due to the moisture of playing ice as well. I don't know if you read the thread in my other post, but I started out just using a combonation of both sides of the velcro stuck to my pads, and just sliding on that! I actually worked pretty slick, except that when I used them for ice the snow build up actualy caused me to "stick" on the ice when I went down........talk about your bazarrow world!

If you are only using them for roller, why the concern with the balistic being water proof? Just curious

The outsides of my R6's are balistic, and I spray them with a waterproofing silicone spray......it seems to work rather well.

I had thought about using the Hook needle since I have on that came in my set, but haven't went down that road yet.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2003, 09:58 AM
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Yeah I remember reading that thread... about you strategically putting the velcro on so that you don't stick together.

Yes... roller, waterproof I never thought about that. Boy, things sure seem clearer in the morning.
After one game, some parts of my pads were a bit wet, like the knee rolls... must have been from my sweat. Or consistently missing my mouth when I drank.

I was just having too much fun putting water on a sheet and watching it while I moved the beads of water around.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2003, 08:55 AM
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Hey guys sorry for taking so long I posted a few pics on my Yahoo account here is the link http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/agents...@sbcglobal.net
Go ahead and take a look, I hope this helps. I can take some more if you like?
I just received two yards of Cordura to make some slip on covers but I'm liking what I hear from Werner1, the plastic slide plates take a long time to take on and off. And since I play ice/inline on the same night I really need another option. I was planning on making full covers for my pads out of the cordura. They would need to cap over the toe and top of the pad, also have "button holes for the straps to thread though.

scwebe13- do you think those covers you have will fit a 32" pad, or would they be too big? How much$.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2003, 12:04 PM
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Hey netminder9 - thanks for posting those close-up pics. Nice pads. The bottom plates are attached differently?

I'll tackle adding a lip to my pads later on.
I'm in the process of making knee lifts and maybe thigh boards. Just got a sewing awl. Fun fun fun.

If you made really nice tight fitting covers, you could probably attach plastic side plates to the covers in the right places. That way you can play ice/inline in the same night without much time to change.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2003, 12:29 PM
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One thing that I was thinking about lately was the slide plates......

Now I don't know forsure on this, but it seems that the more surface to surface contact two materials have, the more friction there is.

I wonder if the plates had some texture ridges on them, or if there were a bunch of smaller plates arranged in a pattern of some sort so that there would be less surface to surface contact, they would slide a bit better on sport court???

I the actual material plays a big part it's self, but I feel that there is more to it than just materials.

Say you had a large heavy piece of furnature that had flat bottom, and it was sitting on a flat smooth surface. It would be difficult to slide accross the floor. But if you installed a little dome shaped foot underneath on each corner it would slide with out a whole lot of effort.

Not a very good example, but I think you get where I'm comming from......yes, no??
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2003, 01:15 PM
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Yeah, I was thinking the same thing the other day, since I noticed that the plastic cowling on my Bauer goalie inlines are rough.

Like you said... less surface area = less friction

I was thinking of small plastic semi-spheres far apart from each other. That way the contact area is the small part of the sphere, and they will still conform to the shape of the pad.

But I guess there is a certain amount that would work.
(kind of like those people who can lie on needle beds... less needles... the more difficult because there is more pressure on each)
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2003, 01:43 PM
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I hear ya but I'm not convinced . The less surface contact the less resistance (ok so far), but on the other side of the coin you now have more weight being distibuted on a smaller surface area. The bigger the slide plate the better weight distribution, use a material with a low co-efficient of drag such as Delrin or Teflon, Delrin has the same physical properties as Teflon and is cheaper. Both can be purchased by the foot in different thickness.
I actually machined my own set of buttons for an inline puck out of teflon that we used on a sport court and it was screaming fast, much faster than the regular buttons on the same puck.
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