#151 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2008, 09:50 AM
Fmy5hole Fmy5hole is offline
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ok two quick questions.

1. has anyone attatched slide plates to a set of tps response pads.

2. always looking for an edge but have no REAL trouble sliding but would like to slide faster. I play on sport court as most places in my area use sport court. Do the slide plates help on this surface or is it not worth the time?
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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2008, 10:03 AM
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i play on sport court only. I have plates. nuff said......... lol

Seriously though I had my plates off for one game and could notice a sliht difference. not much at all but enough to make me like my plates. Not to mention the plates take the beating and not your pads.....
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Old 06-30-2008, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fmy5hole View Post
ok two quick questions.

1. has anyone attatched slide plates to a set of tps response pads.

2. always looking for an edge but have no REAL trouble sliding but would like to slide faster. I play on sport court as most places in my area use sport court. Do the slide plates help on this surface or is it not worth the time?
You first question was answered with pics on the first post of the previous page.

I've only ever used my slide plates on sport court, and they definitely make a difference when compared to the synthetic leather inner gussets, and knee and calf wings that seem to almost stick to the sport court.
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2008, 10:24 AM
Fmy5hole Fmy5hole is offline
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thanks for the replies i guess its time to start making some plates
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2008, 04:51 PM
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love my slide plates!

ive been reading on and on thru this thread and followed the directions and my plates came out awesome!!! i have bauer xxx pads that i use for roller only and it only took about an hour to do both pads. i also used industrial adhesive to attache the plates directly to the pads and they are solid! thanx for the directions guys
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Old 07-05-2008, 10:14 AM
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a finished pic

herese a pic of my vapors with freshly installed slide plates. gave them a test run in the basement and they were slicker than whale**** in an iceflow!!!
Attached Thumbnails
anyone-wear-slide-plates-vapors.jpg  
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2008, 11:17 PM
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About a week ago, one of the knee wing plates fell completely off the pad during a game. The adhesive does not hold up to the leather. I took all my plates off. I really didn't have that hard of a time removing the velcro off the leather. It left no residue or damage to the leather either

Ultimately I want lace in pads, as c0nquistad0rian's, but my main problem is a lack of attachment with no medial rolls. I am not comfortable sewing one on my own nor do I see how you can on a TPS R8.

I might try taking the pads to the shoe repair guy that fixed my pads when I first bought them, (goalie monkey recommended him), and see if he might be able to sew on a leather medial roll.

My other concern is how I would go about making the holes in the leather once a medial roll is attached.
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2008, 06:12 AM
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Kings - Did you use the super strong industrial adhesive velcro? With your velcro not leaving any residue I would not think so, though maybe you got lucky.

I honestly dont know why you all try to stick the plates on the pads anyway. It is a shoddy path to go that will end up badly eventually. Sooner or later someoen will have them dislodge during a game....

Get a medial roll attached to your pad. Not hard to do if you can sew slightly. A repair guy can do it in probably 45 minutes. You can go with leather or nylon. To aid with weight I would instead use nylon as it is just as strong for what you will be using it for. Once the medial roll is attached punch holes in your plates using a hole punch. Then line up the holes on the pads and do the same. Then proceed to use your twine like material to sew the plates to the pad.

You want almost a wax covered nylon cording for the twine. Think of giant size dental floss......
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soulpatch View Post
Kings - Did you use the super strong industrial adhesive velcro? With your velcro not leaving any residue I would not think so, though maybe you got lucky.

I honestly dont know why you all try to stick the plates on the pads anyway. It is a shoddy path to go that will end up badly eventually. Sooner or later someoen will have them dislodge during a game....

Get a medial roll attached to your pad. Not hard to do if you can sew slightly. A repair guy can do it in probably 45 minutes. You can go with leather or nylon. To aid with weight I would instead use nylon as it is just as strong for what you will be using it for. Once the medial roll is attached punch holes in your plates using a hole punch. Then line up the holes on the pads and do the same. Then proceed to use your twine like material to sew the plates to the pad.

You want almost a wax covered nylon cording for the twine. Think of giant size dental floss......
I used the same industrial strength velcro that leafer used. Where would I go to purchase the cording?
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suicidekings View Post
I used the same industrial strength velcro that leafer used. Where would I go to purchase the cording?
I just used standard 3mm/ 1/8" thick solid braided nylon cording that is used in goalie equipment. You can get something like it at a hiking/climbing store, like REI.

As for the medial roll: look at your pad from the inner gusset. The face of your pad should be slightly raised at the seem where the inner gusset and the face meet. I carefully used a sewing awl to sew a jenpro tab along that length coming in through the side of the face of the pad and coming out on the face itself. Be careful to try not to hit any of the existing stitching, and try to keep your stitching uniform. If I were to truly install the medial roll correctly, I would open up the pad, undo that stitching that connects the inner gusset and the face of the pad, and install the medial roll to that internal stitching. But, it would be a lot of work for the same outcome. I've sewn medial rolls onto the outside of two sets of pads for the purpose of attaching slide plates and haven't really had any durability issues. Just do a good job with the stitching tightness and uniformity the first time around. The sewing awl makes this job easy, if not a bit tedious.

And the punch: google leather punch. mine looks like a standard hole punch, with a wheel that's got different sizes of punches. There are also some that look more like a giant pen that you just poke through the leather with. These give you a lot more freedom with where you can place holes in the material that you're working with.

One board member, marauder31, actually used a soldering iron to burn holes through the medial role on his pads. This works because the "leather" on goalie pads is actually artificial/plastic based and it just melts away, like burning the frayed end of a nylon cord.

EDIT:
Seriously, it seems like a lot of you guys are seeing pictures in one thread on making slide plates and copying that. There are a lot of questions asked that have even been previously answered in this thread before. Before I made my first set of slide plates, I looked up half a dozen threads, read over the few how-to's there were at the time, PMed board members for more detailed pictures of their own slide plates and even asked them key things to look at, or things that they may have done differently.

I did all of this before I settled on my own method, which is why I try to be quick to point out other people's methods when answering questions that are currently out there.

If you're going to do this, take your time and do the job right.

It's almost a shame that some of you guys don't live closer to me. I actually enjoy making slide plates and affixing them to pads. If not for shipping charges and wait times, I would have already gladly made a couple of sets for board members by now.

Last edited by c0nquistad0rian : 07-09-2008 at 09:25 AM.
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2008, 09:37 AM
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As Conquistadorian stated many of us who had the plates have taken very close pics of them. I know I did for him when he was looking to make his plates as mine are stock on my Battram pads.

too many people run out to do this and do not take the neccessary steps to go about it right.
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2008, 08:59 PM
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c0nquistad0rian, check your pms

Thanks
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2008, 04:57 AM
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I had a pic request for the rear attachment system that I used for my slide plates - making nylon loops that I belt loop the pad straps through.

Here they are...

Here are a couple of shots looking down on the knee plate. note that I heated and slightly curved all of the plates in order to life that back edge off of the ground and prevent some wear on the nylon cord.





Here are some shots of the boot plate:






Here's a shot looking up at the calf plate:



Here's one of the inside of the calf plate (the plates always look longer from the inside because they're attached to the front of the gusset while the actual padding on the pad is attached to the back of the gusset)


And here's a shot of the plates all together:



You can use a drill to make the holes. But, I found it a bit frustrating, because the drill bit in the size that you need won't go through the plastic on its own. You have to use a smaller drill bit to get through and then gauge it with the size that you need. And after you drill them, take an exacto-knife and carve out. I believe that I started with 1/16" and worked my way upto 1/8" drill bit.

Although, I found it easier to use the same leather punch that I used on my medial roll to punch the holes out of the plastic. It just required less steps and took far less time.
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 06:04 AM
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If this is against board rules, let me know or just delete the post.

But i am looking to get some RBK 6k pads tricked out with some slide plates. I am not much of a craftsman or i'd do it myself, but just thinking about it i know i will just trash some good pads and end up with just being regretful (and if someone wants to flame me for calling 6k pads good go ahead, but for the price they are the bomb)

If anyone is interested in providing me this service, let me know (PM) and we can workout the details.

Thanks in advance!
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2008, 12:09 PM
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RBK 6k Drill Thru Method

I've been wanting to mod my pads for a loong time. Being 6Ks as well as strictly just for in-line use, I opted a more "permanent" solution by drilling through the pad for a secure set of plates. I contemplated the whole "tried but not always true" industrial velcro idea as well as the "time consuming" medial roll method (which I was ever so close to doing but having a new set of Vorteks for ice meant I didn't mind drilling holes in a new set of pads.) Using this method, one can always unlace the plates if switching to ice (or lace the cord through again without them if you don't like the "new" holes. Kinda like the way the leg channel lacing shows on the front of most pads.)
After 20 games there is no needed adjustments. They have held up as solid as my original pair of Battram Roller pads. Hope the pics are clear enough for you guys to understand and follow along. Enjoy.


Careful tracing provides for a custom pro look. Seriously, trace first, then trace again before cutting. I used a set of heavy duty scissors. Dremel tool cleans it all up.

Use the same spacing as the black cord used for the leg channel on the face of the pad.

Drilled thru and anchored by discs. *Obviously a lacing needle is a must!

When tracing out this boot plate, make sure the slit for the boot strap is traced and cut out last. Cordura Nylon sewn over toe binding. (ensures no hang up with tiled roller surfaces)
Anchor discs made from excess plastic.

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