Rusting Bauers

[daveB]

Well.. it is pretty evident that bauer skates rust... I just got my skates sharpened the week of the attack.. so that was like the 11th. infact I believe it was the same day.. Any way.. I havent found time to skate yet.. college life is keeping me pretty busy... Never again will I take 17 credit hours. So.. back to the skates.. the rust is developing in the hollow itself... I know there is some elements that construction workers use in steel that makes it rust.. and by it rusting it makes the steel stronger. Is there anything one can do to Prevent the rust on the blades... or is it just one of those things you live with?
I was thinking about taking a brilo pad or something and working the rust out.. but that might mess up the hollow.

Is the rust a problem with ALL skates or just mainly bauer?

Believe me the thought of applying rustoleum to my blades crossed my mind a few times

-dave

hey dave,what i do after every game and practise is i take off my socks and dry my skates and put the wide part of the sock on the skate blade.good luck

~-.:the skunk-platypuse:.-~

[guitargoalie]

hey dave, i wouldn't bother with the brillo pad, first of all it will mess up the blade, second of all they will give you some strange looks at the pro shop.

[daveB]

...ok... I also got word from sloth, that keep them in a dry enviroment... well with winter coming that wont be a problem.. is there any way to get the rust OUT of the steel.. like CLR or, dare I say, Orange Glow? hehe

-dave

[Bryan]

I never attributed the rusting to be a 'Bauer' thing, but now that I think about it, my last goal skates had a problem with rust (Bauer Impact), my son's last forward skates had a problem with rust (Bauer Vapor), yet my current CCM's and my son's new Missions have yet to exhibit any rusting.

[Matt#30]

I bought my bauer skates a little more than a year ago and there is not so much as a spec of rust on them yet.
Heres what i do after games, maybe if you follow the same procedure you can prevent your skates from rusting even more.
1.Wipe down the skate blade.
2.Take the skates home (of course)
3.Wipe the blade down once again
4.Wrap in towel or some sort of cloth.

Sometimes just whiping off your skates once just isnt enough, after you whipe them off the 1st time the blade is still cold from being on the ice and builds up condensation. So keep them in a warm room and whipe them down a second time. I hope i helped you in some way.

[Colin]

Originally posted by davescool2001:
I know there is some elements that construction workers use in steel that makes it rust..

ummm..yeah, I think they call it iron.

Seriously, though. Dry the blades off and then put a little oil on them. I keep a small towel in my bag with just a bit of oil on it. I first wipe the blades dry and then run the oily rag over them. You just need a thin coat. It keeps the water in the air off of the blades.

Also I think you'll find it's not a Bauer thing, it's a matter of what type of blades you use: carbon steel or stainless steel. Carbon steel is going to rust much quicker than stainless (that's why it's called stainless).

[daveB]

A feind I mean Friend of mine recomended that after every use.. go ahead and whipe 'em down.. and throw some vasaline on them... just a thin coat.. kinda like the oil.. speaking of oil what kind of oil... WD40? 10W 30? Olive Oil... Glycerin from Lipids... there is a WHOLE wide spectrum of oils.. so being more specific wont hurt
-dave

[canesgoalie]

I heard the same thing about oiling the blade, heard vegetable oil or WD40 are viable alternatives. I use the cloth skate guards and have been happy with them. I wipe the blades dry with the outside of the blade guard after I remove my skates and put the blade guards on, has worked well.

[This message has been edited by canesgoalie (edited September 23, 2001).]

[G-Man]

If you keep the skates dry, rust shouldn't be an issue. If you have a moisture problem where you store them then wiping them down with oil will help prevent the rust on the blade. But you should try to find a dryer place. There are other things on skates that can rust, like rivets and eyelets. Rusty eyelets suck because they can develop burrs that cut through the laces.

If you have plastic skate guards don't leave them on the skates when you store them. If you have the cloth guards make sure they, and the skates, are completely dry before putting them back on. Although you're probably better off leaving those off too.

If the rust is only in the hollow and it's not too bad it will wear off the first time you skate. If that doesn't do it then just get them sharpened.

[VaughnVelocity4]

Heres what i do, yet i dont have bauer skates.

1. Wipe down the blade with a rag and get it almost dead dry. I wipe mine down every 30 seconds till i feel like leaving the rink.
2. When your home, of course then just wipe then down and do something.

[bedris]

I have Bauer skates (R3000's) and I've never had problems with rust on the blade. However, in every single Bauer skate I've owned, I've always had rust on the rivets.

As for blade maintenence, I wipe them down after I'm done playing, put a scrungee on them, throw them in my bag, and forget them.

[az]

I've been wearing the same Bauer Impacts for the past ten years, and I've never had a significant problem with rust. I just wipe them down in the locker room. And I store them in a warm dry place with nothing on them (no oil, no covers, etc.).

Infrequently, I do get a tad of rust on the hollow, but that's fairly harmless. If I do get rust, it gets worn off next time I skate.

I would recommend, dave, that you buy some terry cloth skate covers pretty soon, NOT the plastic covers.

I just bought a new pair of Reactor 3000's.

I too had skates that would rust, so I asked the guy how I could avoid this with my new pair.

He said it was easy. Rust developes because the blades are cold and cold steel holds moisture, so wiping the blades alone does not dry them. He told me to run them under hot water to bring them to room temperature and then completely dry them.

I have not tried this yet so I cannot comment further.

[Colin]

Originally posted by davescool2001:
speaking of oil what kind of oil... WD40? 10W 30? Olive Oil... Glycerin from Lipids-dave

Anything petrolium-based should work: vaseline, WD-40,30-weight, MIL-SPEC 9280, etc. :-)

I avoid the vegetable oils becasue, at least according to my martial-arts buddies with large sword collections, the veggie oils tend to go rancid after a while and will eventually make things worse.