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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2007, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennhealy View Post
The reason I stopped playing goal in roller was that I hated the friction. This looks like it could be a good way to overcome that a bit.

Question though, when you want to use the pads for ice, what happens to the velcro pads attached to the leather? I assume theyre well adhered and dont just peel off?
It depends. I'm guessing that if I can stockpile enough velcro, I'll just use the heat gun to loosen it up and then pull it off of the pad. The velcro does come off if you pull hard enough, but I don't want to damage the material, so heating it will minimize that.

I really don't play ice that often, so it's a non-issue at this point.


And Mike, you were definitely right
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Old 02-21-2007, 05:25 AM
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The Velcro

The issue of how well the adhesive on the velcro will hold on the pads has already been addressed, but I'm kind of curious as to how well the velcro adhesive will hold on the UHMW, which is designed to be slick. Keep us posted as to how they hold up!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2007, 06:32 AM
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Just use double-sided foam tape to stick the plates on. They will not come off.

Anyone wear slide plates?
Stick-on slide plates near the bottom of this page.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:46 AM
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Thanks! Definitely going to look into that.

Based on the way the pads are used, I don't think it'll be too much of an issue unless I take direct shots to them
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2007, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leaferguy View Post
I'm now taking orders to do this for other people's pads Seriously, though, I may do it for the other goalie on my team (at a decent rate). If it works well for him, I'm in business! I have another practice on Thursday where I'll be doing a lot more PK, so I'll update again after that.
I will be placing my order soon and I want a discount dammit!

Seriously I would be very interested in getting myself some. I would probably just attach them to my pad covers.

Nice work though, glad to see all that schooling was good for something.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beccaraptor View Post
Don't buy that heat gun with just the hot and hotter setting, it sucks.
It works fine for a lot stuff, just don't buy it from Home Depot. I got mine for like $9.99 at a Harbor-Freight store.

It's great for heat-shrinking and heating stuff (which is what I bought it for). Naturally, it's not a workhorse, but hey, can't complain with the cost

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35776

It does 630F and 1000F.
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Old 02-21-2007, 04:17 PM
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Pics of stick-on plates. Same basic idea as Leaferguy but uses the double-sided tape I mentioned earlier in lieu of the velcro method.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/PICT0111.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/PICT0112.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/PICT0113.jpg

The plates do not come off...unless you want them to.
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Old 02-21-2007, 04:25 PM
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How's the duct tape work with the pad? Any staining?
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Old 02-21-2007, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by leaferguy View Post
How's the duct tape work with the pad? Any staining?
Nope! It's just some shiney black duct tape I got from Lowes. Doesn't even leave any adhesive on the pads when you do pull it off.
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:56 PM
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That's some mighty fine work - best slide plates I've ever seen.

Few questions about the process of ordering the plastic, even though the McMaster website is top-notch:

1) Did the company give you any hassle about the small order? What were the shipping charges?
2) Why 1/16" thickness? Does it feel too thick or too thin in retrospect? Could you go down to 0.5" or 0.4" safely?
3) Why *not* the UHMWPE with adhesive backing already applied?
4) Can you weigh a 6x6" (roughly) piece of your plastic?
5) Is this stuff sufficiently light and impact-resistant for a blocker board?

Last edited by Law Goalie : 02-21-2007 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:54 PM
Dare Devil 33 Dare Devil 33 is offline
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Slide plates are realy looking great. I was wondering do you guys think it would work on asphalt? Because that's where i play the majority of my games on, and that's where i practise on.

I love the way i'm able to move when playing indoors, would this get me closer to that when playing outdoors?

Tom
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2007, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntster View Post
I will be placing my order soon and I want a discount dammit!

Seriously I would be very interested in getting myself some. I would probably just attach them to my pad covers.

Nice work though, glad to see all that schooling was good for something.
How's 75 cents off ?

Attaching them to the pad covers would be a very cool idea. You could come up with a more permanent and robust way to attach them, given that the covers are cheaper than a full set of pads.

And let's be honest... I'm still as dumb as a brick (and half as attractive!).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Law Goalie View Post
That's some mighty fine work - best slide plates I've ever seen.

Few questions about the process of ordering the plastic, even though the McMaster website is top-notch:

1) Did the company give you any hassle about the small order? What were the shipping charges?
2) Why 1/16" thickness? Does it feel too thick or too thin in retrospect? Could you go down to 0.5" or 0.4" safely?
3) Why *not* the UHMWPE with adhesive backing already applied?
4) Can you weigh a 6x6" (roughly) piece of your plastic?
5) Is this stuff sufficiently light and impact-resistant for a blocker board?
Thank you! That's some high praise

1) No hassle at all. Shipping was $4, but I'm also in Southeastern Pennsylvania, which a strong arm's stone's throw from their warehouse.

2) I used the 1/16" thickness because that's what avatarkava suggested. I thought about going a little thicker at first, but I'm glad I didn't! If anything, I would like to, at some point, try something a little bit thinner, which would put me into a film rather than a sheet. That may be more cost-prohibitive at this point, but definitely worth thinking about later on (something like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...ring=86255K71).

One very good quality of the 1/16" is that it has some degree of rigidity, which I believe helps the sliding quality of the pad. Theoretically, it's the same downward force no matter what the material is. I don't know the exact frictional properties of the UHMWPE, but if the contact area between it and the floor were to become too small, it may take away from the desired slipping effect. By having it be a little more rigid, the contact area remains more constant and larger. A thinner film that may deform and create a higher pressure impact on a smaller region could possibly create too high of a friction factor and make the plate stick a little bit. While I don't think it would be that noticeable, I do think it may reduce the efficacy of the whole design (especially in the knee/knee wing area).

3) As far as the self-adhesive product goes, I wanted something that I could adhere to the pad and play around with as I pleased. If I messed up or wanted to make changes after adhering it to the pad, I'm likely SOL. Also, when using the heat gun, there's a good chance that I could damage the adhesive through prolonged heating. Not knowing much about the products with which I was working, I wanted to keep it relatively simple. If the glue is capable of withstanding high temps, however, it may definitely speed up the process if you're willing to take away the removable aspect.

4) I can shortly. I'll take a piece to the lab at school. I can say that the added weight has not been noticed whatsoever.

5) I would assume it's light enough. As far as impact resistance, I don't know. Judging by what's in my blocker now, it may be a very similar material. McMaster does offer a Premium UHMWPE that's slightly less friction-inducing and also more impact resistant. I'm assuming that somewhere in between 1/8" and 1/4" would likely work very well in a blocker, but I am no expert.

One issue I'd worry about would be its rigidity. If it's too stiff, would it make paddle-down hard? The temperatures of both ice and roller rinks are well within its tolerance, so if it's not already being used, it would definitely make for an interesting experiment.


Hope that helps! Off to get 4 hours of sleep

EDIT: Okay, a little less than four...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dare Devil 33 View Post
Slide plates are realy looking great. I was wondering do you guys think it would work on asphalt? Because that's where i play the majority of my games on, and that's where i practise on.

I love the way i'm able to move when playing indoors, would this get me closer to that when playing outdoors?

Tom
If the asphalt isn't very rough, it may. I'd be more worried about the adhesive holding the plastic to the pad than the actual durability of the product at that point. One important note about these is that they're designed for indoor play on Sportcourt/Icecourt surfaces. Still, perhaps using Boss302's double-sided adhesive and a slightly thicker sheet, you should be able to make something work. Just remember that it'll be harder to form a thicker sheet, so keep it within reason (I'd try not to exceed 1/8").

Last edited by leaferguy : 02-21-2007 at 11:20 PM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2007, 05:19 PM
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A few more questions for leafer when he gets back from the lab...

I'm a little curious about this "film vs. sheet" distinction. In my digging around the McMaster site, it appeared that UHMWPE came in several thicknesses below 1/16" in sheet form (0.062", 0.05", 0.04", 0.032", 1/32"). Did I miss something here? (edit: thanks, c0nq )

Where is Premium UHMWPE on McMaster's site?

In general, are rigid, low-friction plastics effectively sharper than similarly rigid, higher-friction plastics? (ie. are the edges of a lower-friction plastic more likely to slice into or through weaker materials, like Jenpro, even if their edges are ground down?)

Last edited by Law Goalie : 02-22-2007 at 07:38 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2007, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Law Goalie View Post
A few more questions for leafer when he gets back from the lab...

I'm a little curious about this "film vs. sheet" distinction. In my digging around the McMaster site, it appeared that UHMWPE had two thicknesses below 1/16" in sheet form: 0.5" and 0.4". Did I miss something here?

Where is Premium UHMWPE on McMaster's site?

In general, are rigid, low-friction plastics effectively sharper than similarly rigid, higher-friction plastics? (ie. are the edges of a lower-friction plastic more likely to slice into or through weaker materials, like Jenpro, even if their edges are ground down?)
Yes. You missed a zero 1/16" = .0625, the thicknesses that you mean must be: .05 and .04"

I actually used 1/8" thick UHMW, because the 1/16" doesn't come in black. The 1/8" worked fine, but I would've used 1/16" if I could have. It seems the trend to go thinner, but the only reason that I would think to worry about the sharpness of the edges would be after you cut it. The edge that you cut is usually pretty sharp, but a piece of sand paper can take care of that.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2007, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Law Goalie View Post
Where is Premium UHMWPE on McMaster's site?

In general, are rigid, low-friction plastics effectively sharper than similarly rigid, higher-friction plastics? (ie. are the edges of a lower-friction plastic more likely to slice into or through weaker materials, like Jenpro, even if their edges are ground down?)
84765K512 is the part number for the Premium stuff.

Regarding the edge, I think it's a matter of how you cut and treat it afterwards like c0nquistad0rian said. The plastic shouldn't be any sharper or anything like that unless you leave it so.
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